Don't ask yourself what the world needs.

Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that,

because what the world needs is people who have come alive.

-- Gil Bailie

You Can Dream: Stories of Moroccan Women Who Do.

Please take a moment to watch this inspirational video made by fellow staagmate Cortney Healy. It highlights six tremendous women who have made a difference. This video brilliantly captures what I found so empowering about the grassroots development work I did in Peace Corps.

You Can Dream: Stories of Moroccan Women Who Do by Cortney Healy.

**HAPPY HUMAN RIGHTS DAY**

What Are They Doing Now That I'm Gone?

What are they doing now that I'm gone...? Isn't that the test? The measure of sustainable development lies not in what I do but what they've internalized and thus sustain on their own. I've been in touch with several women since leaving and I couldn't be more proud.

In November, Asmaa Sidi Baba, a Moroccan designer, visited the village. Amina and I had made this contact back in May at Marche Maroc Rabat. I then met her on two more occasions to work through ideas and possibilities. Before I was medically separated, I had helped the women prepare some samples for her new crochet metal collection. However, I could not be there for her visit. Had I been there, I would have had to take care of all the logistics and external communications by default. Instead, Aicha, the Association President, handled everything as she should! Bravo 3liha.

From what I gathered, they had a very productive day. Asmaa brought her design sense and market knowledge. She represents the vital but missing link for so many of Morocco's artisans. During the visit, she placed several orders with the women due in December. Highlights of her new line include the following:

** 90 cm double chain necklace

**Mixed metal hoop earrings

**Sterling Silver and Copper Crochet Cuff

The last piece requires a collaboration with a silversmith from Tiznit (about 1 1/2 hr taxi ride away). I was fortunate to stumble upon an extremely honest and sincere (nichan) silversmith. Again, I made the initial contact and spent a couple days working alongside him. And again, I did not have the chance to slowly transfer the contact over. But what does that matter?! They seem to have made this relationship work! Aicha or Nadia, who is in charge of external communications, contacted him. And he has sent the cuff frames on CTM (Morocco's national bus line). Wonderful! The price of silver fluctuates. This means that the women need to walk through costing and pricing all over again. Talking to Aicha, she seems confident in doing so. Tbark allah 3lihom.

Is there still more work to be done? Of course. And I think there could always an argument to do "more work." However, my work with them, at least in this capacity, has come to a conclusion. They've demonstrated how much more they can handle. My heart is full.

Thank-you Peace Corps, Thank-you Morocco

I'm now back in home America. I've left Morocco and dear friends who've become family. I'm blessed to have spent two years (or two days) learning, sharing and growing alongside them. I'm humbled by what they have meant and will mean in the years to come. My heart is full.

Photos that capture what these two years meant for my personal growth:

**Looking out the Auberge window, wondering what is in store for me these next two years.

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**Confused and overwhelmed at the communication challenges.

**Me in my village.

**Taking time to stop and smell the roses.

**Upside down and bent over backwards.

Being stretched, twisted and re-centered is very indicative of my Peace Corps experience.

**Home and spending time with my mom.

This is us making dumplings, my favorite food.

The Girl Effect: The Clock is Ticking

What can you do to promote world peace?

Go home and love your family.
--Mother Teresa

Many people have asked how I found my work. I describe to them the income generating project (line of crocheted jewelry). I tell them about my morning aerobic class, and how they leave hshuma at the nedi door. And I tell them about the Childcare Project, which so many of you have donated towards. Why did I do this? 1) Because I fell in love with the village and these women. 2) Because I wholeheartedly believe in "The Girl Effect."

**The women and I leaving the Women's Center

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Morocco co-operatives strengthen female independence.

By Siham Ali

Magharebia 2010-09-30

Co-operatives are changing the lives of women, teaching them new skills and rewarding them with financial freedom. Many women in rural areas of Morocco have joined female-only co-operatives and taken their destiny into their own hands. The businesses have changed their lives completely, providing the women with their own income and increasing their self-esteem.

In the Souss-Massa-Draa region, for example, thousands of women have joined forces for a tree cultivation project. Nezha Aktir, a graduate of Agadir University, decided in 2004 that she would help women in her region by setting up the Tifaout Women's Agricultural Co-operative, which has 72 members. She admitted that revenue is still modest, but previously these women were earning virtually nothing. "There are no clubs for women. They go the whole year round with nothing to do. Hence the idea of setting up this co-operative so that they can receive a financial benefit and meet other people," said Khadija Benchich, chairperson of the Adrar co-operative.

Sociologist Hamid Bekkali says that co-operative work enables women in rural areas to open up to the outside world and to build on their skills, even though the men were reluctant to accept the idea at first. "Women had to be patient in order to change their daily lives," Bekkali explained. "Women in rural areas have always worked hard, but have never been able to have a tangible income." "The organisation of women into co-operatives is an important turning point which has given women financial independence and the power to take decisions," she added. "This has a positive effect on family life and children's education. Women in rural areas have become real actors in local development."

The co-op employees also receive tuition for literacy classes and training in other skills, including business organisation and marketing for their products. "At the start, my husband was suspicious. He didn't want me to work in a co-operative. Despite that, I decided to go down this route. After a few months, he came to realise the value of my decision," Zahra Tasskifet, a mother of four, said. She added that the income she earns helps to provide education for her children.

According to Moroccan government statistics, the proportion of co-operatives run by women has risen from 2.14% in 1995 to 12.5% in 2010. There are now more than 7,000 co-operatives in the Kingdom, representing 360,600 members. "The ministry of economic and general affairs has shown a great interest in the sector. The idea is to promote local products and enable co-operatives to market their products with much greater room for manoeuvre than in the past, when intermediaries would minimize the workers' earnings," said economist Reda Bachaoui.

Fatima, a mother of three, was desperate to tell Magharebia how she became a different person after starting work with the co-operative, earning around 1,000 dirhams (90 euros) a month. "In the rural area where we live, that's a very attractive income for a woman. I feel my life has changed. I'm not totally submissive any more. I feel stronger and I've got a lot more self-esteem because my efforts are being rewarded," Fatima said.

Cheers to the Overachievers

And everyone of my staagmates is exactly that. For two years, I've seen them redefine success and achievement in their own way. This makes superlatives a bit challenging. Once esteemed compliments including "Most likely to be mistaken as a Derijia speaker over the phone", "Most beloved by her community", and "Best dressed in souq fashion" suddenly becomes simply not good enough. You realize that equally strong arguments could be made for countless others. Or you discover that it represents an unfair standard by which to judge people.

In the overachiever fashion, SBD 08-10 has been PACA-ed. And we've uncovered something similar to what your Mama should have told you from day one, "You're special."

**Ink sketch by Lisa Payne

From A Chaperone's Diary

It was a full moon. The moonlight lit all corners of the village. Where was I? Hidden in the sliver of a shadow, back pushed against a recently vacated house. Or trying to stay hidden as best as I could, wearing my white North Face jacket. *Shayma and her boyfriend are giggling and flirting to my right. I recounted the moments leading up to this. It was l’Aid Kbir. The day started with a big fanfare of events and I was overwhelmed by the newness of everything. When things started to slow down, Shayma instructed me to tell my host sisters that I was heading off to the hanut. Instead, we walked the opposite direction, meeting Hamza in the darkness. After thirty minutes of bickering and testing different stops, they decided this spot would do. This marked the first of many times I became the designated chaperone.

Shayma met her boyfriend multiple times afterwards. When darkness allowed, I gave them a respectable distance. I faithfully did this because I knew no one else could. And I thoroughly enjoyed our following conversations. We’d share experiences and thoughts on relationships. It was like a girls night, just without the wine. Over the course of a year, the relationship soured. She complained that he constantly seemed dejected. Uncomfortable silences replaced the cheerful banter on their dates. Before my second L’Aid Kbir in site, she broke things off. Smart girl. Good for her.

Shayma wasn’t the only girl I chaperoned. I’ve sat waiting in the village’s surrounding fields for *Naima’s “boyfriend” to come on motor. I’ve passed productive hours in the cyber, while *Silama and her interest sat chatting a couple computers down. I’ve blocked traffic in souq so that *Narjist could have a 20 minute “date.” I’ve inadvertently video chatted with a man living in Tangier, connecting him with *Zahra. I’ve even traveled 40 minutes to drink a panache with *Marian and her “telephone friend.” That was their first and, to my knowledge, only meeting.

I’m honored that they trust me in such a way. Then again, who else but a female foreigner could fill this roll? I’ve been privy to and a chaperone of so many dates it ought to be a “Secondary Project.”

Goal 1: To provide a safe, secure and supportive environment for girls to meet potential lovers.

Objective 1.1. Provide a list of “safe spots” for couples to meet.

Objective 1.2: Supervise young couples, providing professional chaperon services upon request.

Goal 2: Empower clients with important life skills in romance.

Objective 2.1. Put into practice skills necessary for a healthy romantic relationship. (PG of course!)

Objective 2.2. Empower clients to make informed decisions through setting S.M.A.R.T goals, monitoring outcomes and devising effective evaluations.

Objective 2.3. Be a good friend for each client. Listen and offer honest feedback.

Like all my other Peace Corps projects, teaching and learning goes both ways. I’ve learned and shared a lot on love, romance and marriage chatting and crocheting at the Women’s Center. They pry into my private life but also share their husband-wife dynamics and gossip about others. When I said I’m a long way from marriage, Sultana responded, “Get ready. There’s no escaping death and marriage.” Like many other Moroccans, she sees marriage for its economic and social purposes. Marriage doesn’t always have to do with love and romance. Aicha shared the two-year courtship with her husband. Other women added in how their marriages grew into love. I’ve never been less than intrigued, hearing women their age (40-50s) say on this topic.

After English tutoring one night, *Omayma and *Farida dove into the topic of careers, futures, romance and finding true love. They are both about my age, strong-willed and strong-minded girls. Least be said, they have a rather different view on love. We threw out hardball questions, ones none of us have sorted out (and quite frankly, don’t need to just yet).

There’s something to be said in how critically they’re approaching all this. I don’t have love figured out. And I know the girls I chaperone sure don’t either. But with each step and misstep, I learn something about myself, what I want/don’t want in man, what I want/don’t want in a relationship. I think there’s great value in taking such a risk. I hope that in chaperoning dates for girls, they learn the same.

*The names of all the girls are changed for their privacy.

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One a separate, loosely-related note: CONGRATS TO SARAH AND BRAHIM!!! They recently tied the knot, in full Berber style. I hope they're finding their happily ever after.

Photos from Sarah and Brahim's Berber Wedding:

**Sarah, the American girl and traditional Berber bride.

**Brahim and Sarah cutting the cake. Berber wedding with some American flavor!

**Wedding parade, 14 cars strong.

**Traditional Amazigh Wedding Dance

**Me and dear staagmates sneaking a quick rest while the music blasts.

A Wholehearted Thank-You, Dear Family and Friends

We have successfully raised $750 for the installation of electricity, making the Childcare Center fully operational!! We are on track to open doors in October. This village couldn't be more thrilled.

From my and everyone in my village, THANK YOU for all your contributions. I cannot say enough to your warm responses and generous donations.

Please be on the lookout for photos of the project's completion soon!

**Photo of the newly built, Women’s Center upstairs. The women will move their Arabic literacy classes and Sewing classes to this room. The first floor will be a Childcare Center and host monthly children’s activities.

Color My World

This past August, I lead a Color Theory and Color Combinations workshop in Ain Leuh. This village, just a quick drive out from Azrou, tugs at your heart strings. It's small enough where everyone knows everyone but big enough to access almost all important amenities. Stairs wind up and down the hillside. Sheep graze in the outer fields. And come August, black berries grow abundantly alongside the village's streams and rivers.

**View of Ain Leuh from Randy's house.

Ain Leuh's weaving cooperative was founded in the 1970s. Their style is a hallmark of traditional, Berber weaving. I would argue that they have highest quality carpets in Morocco. Their designs are impeccably intricate and tight. At Marache Maroc Rabat, they pulled in almost 10 percent of the total sales. Tbark allah 3lihom. And I cannot say enough about the enthusiasm and hearts of these coop ladies! These past two years, they've learned a lot from PCV Randy, whose done fantastic work to transform their showroom and workspace. Things are certainly lookin' good in Ain Leuh!

**I found my magic carpet! Thank you Naima.

Randy and the women had asked for a color workshop several months prior. Things fell through but worked out perfectly to coincide with "Adult Camp." While their craftsmanship is unparalleled, they could use some work in their color choices. I took the color workshop Lindsey Dunnagan, an RPCV and exceptionally talented artist, developed and added other ways to think of color. I ended the workshop with a discussion on color schemes and a group critic of their products. I hope this blog post helps other PCVs and their work on color!

Materials You Need:
- Red, blue and yellow food coloring
- 6 clear tea glasses
- 1 large blank color wheel
- blank color wheels, one for each participant (I found it helpful to have stars denoting where the primary colors will go)
- Red, blue and yellow food coloring
- Brushes
- Pallets to mix colors on
- Water cups

Fill three tea glasses with water. Add a drop of food coloring in each tea glass. Explain th at red, blue and yellow are the primary colors, from which all colors come. Ask for volunteers to mix the primary colors and create secondary colors (purple, orange and green). It's always a good idea to check with the participants and make sure they understand what happened. Quiz them orally before moving onto the next step!

Make a color wheel from these six tea glasses. Remove the secondary colors from view. Have the participants place the secondary colors in between the correct two primary colors.

**Me explaining secondary colors.

Next pass out the blank color wheels, paints, brushes and water. Have the participants make their own colors wheels using only red, blue and yellow paints.

**Women making their own color wheels.

Then explain the following color pamphlet. Review basic relationships between colors. Also stress feelings associated with certain colors.


I wanted to show how all this information related to them and their work. The other PCVs helped me pick out different pieces from their showroom. We talked through the color choices and made suggestions for improvements. Khadija was particularly quick in catching on.

I showed them photos of the ocean, summer flowers, Moroccan desert, etc. I used an online color palette generator to pull out key colors in each photo. From these print outs, the women could clearly see common color schemes. Again, allow time for discussion and feedback. Quiz the participants and let them show you they're understanding these concepts.

Afterwards, have the women make their own color scheme. I asked one weaver to share her yarn and thread. Whenever doing a product development workshop, connect as many dots as possible. The women giggled and laughed. PCVs and I walked around the circle, helping the women with their choices.

**Digging into Khadija's string to make their own color schemes.

In the end, there are no hard and fast rules to color fun. Stress creative imagination and experimentation along with taking inventory. What are the customers saying about certain color schemes? Look at what they're buying and what they're not buying! Take inventory. Khadija and Khadija seemed to truly internalize everything I said. And I'm happy they seemed to take something away from the workshop.

When you try this, remember to think of your audience and how they can best apply these concepts. Good luck!

More Photos from Adult Camp:

**Ready to take on those blackberry bushes!

**The best part of blackberry picking.
This comes second to waking up each morning to french toast with blackberry jam.

**Pedicures followed by Project Runway!
Anyone whose seen my feet knows how greatly appreciated they were after this scrub.

Living in Art: Doors, Wires and Tiles

Since coming to Morocco, I've developed an obsession for doors. Some follow the classic Arab architecture. Some are rectangular with added wire designs. Others are rundown, with chipped paint. I often slow my pace around these doors and wonder. What could be inside? What type of people live there? If the door could talk, what story would it tell?

**Chefchauoen Doors

**Beth and I posing!

Equally impressive are Morocco's mosaic tiles. They give life to walls and add artistic value to fountains. The different specs of color pull your attention here and there. I have several tile patterns in my bedroom. After two years, I'm still not bored looking at them. What a feast for your eyes!

**In the Marrakech Artisana Ensemble

**Mina and I in front of a fountain in Rabat

**Zleej found in Fes

And did I mention the wire patterns?! I love it when spiraling wires are added to the most humblest windows. Even the saddest streets, with plastic bags flying about, I can find windows with those signature swirls. And that can make all the difference.

**A view of Fes from Hotel Boujloud.

**Wiring in the windows adds an unexpected twist.

For a side summer project, I wanted to bring pieces of that world into my home. My house lacked character and color. Photos of my new bedroom are posted in an earlier blog. Now I've completed interior renovations to my house! Take a look!

**Filled in with tiles fragments found in my village.

**Bathroom

**Kitchen/walkway area

**This pattern (above) I took from the design on my CBT host family's windows (below).

Fair Trading

Fair trade is a “people powered” movement towards global economic justice. The fair trade supply-chain model cuts out the vast network of middlemen, connecting the lives of consumers and producers more directly. Producers receive a living wage in their local context. Retailers buy from them directly. And shoppers are no longer blind to their dollar vote. For artisans, the fair trade business model also means a new found voice and price stability for their products.

This ideal motivated me to accept Peace Corps Morocco’s invitation and work with women’s artisan cooperatives, as detailed in the job description. Close the case studies, climb out from behind the computer and hang up the phone! I don’t need to interview and write about other people doing amazing work. Where’s my plane ticket? And who are my artisans? I came enthusiastic to see this concept in action. I wanted to open doors and let the world can hear their stories.

I’m now two years from that moment and wrapping up my work with a women’s Association. I’ve clocked countless hours crocheting alongside the women, improving their technique and introducing new ones. I brought samples of their products to Peace Corps trainings for feedback, sales and confidence-building. I jumped at opportunities to meet store owners and designers on their behalf, digging deep into Peace Corps’ meager living allowance. When it came time to attend craft fairs, I (almost literally) cornered them into coming. Swiya b swiya, ladies started showing a new found enthusiasm and courage to travel outside the village. Countless women approached me, eager to attend the next m3arid. I hustled in order to move the golden arrow of Economics. As I sit back now, I’m humbled by the realization of what I’ve given them in the grand scheme of things- a drop in the bucket. They’ve come a long way. However, they are still light years away from exporting to Fair Trade retailers such as Ten Thousand Villages. And that’s perfectly okay.

In the midst of this hustle and bustle, I tried to live as I preach. I wholeheartedly support the ideals of Fair Trade and want to give as much as I receive. The most fulfilling relationships are mutually beneficial. I bring the vegetables and coconut milk. You bring the rice and curry paste. She brings the brownies. Together, we feast like kings.

I found this equation rather simple in the States among trusted friends. I never took more than I could give. And my friends respected the same code. Loaned money is best immediately repaid. Sure, you can borrow my black shirt dress if can I wear your gray sweater? Both parties returned the respective borrowed items in a timely fashion and in their original condition. There's clarity in what's mine and what's yours. There's clarity in the terms and conditions surrounding such exchanges. We're culturally groomed to understand. No one wants to be that friend.

Coming to Morocco, I found these lines blurred. Living "tic for tac" became easier said than done. In the early months of service, I felt as if I was running up a huge debt to community members. They were patient and understanding. Countless women were eager to show me the ropes and provide perspective, as previous volunteers provided insight on my experience. I remember taking mid-morning walks around my village. Without fail, families opened their doors, inviting me for tea, snack and meals. Being a Peace Corps Volunteer in this village, meant becoming a valued member of a family community. Love runs deep. My Moroccan counterparts were happy to tllay fiya (take care of me). Benevolent humanitarian? Perhaps "rockstar life" more accurately described my role.

However, Moroccans quickly came knocking on my door for favors, literally and figuratively. One by one, they pried to see how far they could get. "I'm short on money this month with my child's illness. Can you help?" "My head hurts and don't you can a suitcase full of medicine?" "Can I borrow your camera? I'm visiting my aunt this weekend." "My mother will die of cancer if I don't find the money to pay for her trip and medicine."

Some borrowed crochet hooks became forever lost. I lent Uno cards on several occasions. Sometimes, they returned battered and worn, until one day they too disappeared. I've given small sums of money, knowing quite well these debts will not be repaid. Neighborhood children often gather in my house for an informal, after school daycare. We spend many days playing games, coloring and painting. On several occasions, I unknowingly (but passively) allowed kids take home crayons, pens or toys. The rest of the day, I wrestled with my decision. "Okay. I've been taken advantage of. But next time!"

For many reasons, Moroccans don't count favors in this respect. I learned this early in my service one night, when I stayed over the Laifats's for snack, dinner and then bedtime. Several weeks prior, I visited their aunt in a neighboring village. I had taken photos and therefore printed them out upon request. Saida apologized for owing me money on the photos. I laughed. Although Peace Corps does not pay us like kings, I haven’t felt the pinch of this extra expense. I told her, “Look how many times I’ve come over and eat from you! That’s money and I’ll pay you in photos!” She looks surprised and confused. “Hshuma. It’s not like this.” she said, shaking her head. “Our house is your house. Come over, eat dinner, stay or don’t stay. Do as you like. You are always welcome. We don’t think like this.”

I do not wish to summarize my experience in crayons given and bread eaten. This equation is ridiculous and by no means the "take-away" of this Peace Corps service. I had to learn how to set boundaries and be comfortable with my decisions. Rather, this experience's beauty lies in the cross-cultural discussions on life, love, careers, religions, you name it. It rests in the times I called upon them frustrated after a bad day. And, as real friends do, returned the favor by being their shoulder to cry on. Vis versa, we're there to double joy in reaching life's milestones. I cannot tally up these experiences as expenses paid and expenses received on an Excel sheet. The accounting sheet is completely irrelevant.

Earlier this month, I have the joy of returning to my training community. I spent time with my host family and acquaintances, retracing familiar footsteps. I made house visits with host sister, Nouzha, after lftor (breaking of Ramadan fast). Thankfully, this time around, I had the language, self-confidence and comfort I lacked during training. At a family friend's house, the women exclaimed what an eclectic mix I am. Nouzha responded in agreement, “She's a Chinese-American, who can speak Darija like a true Houarian! She's become a Moroccan, one of us. You don’t find that everywhere." "True," I said, “But here’s my sister who, like her family, has opened doors to two very different Americans. You have loved both of us as their own. And we've loved you as family too. Hadi shi haja. That's something.”

Upon a cross-cultural collision, both parties enrich and broaden each other's lives. Deciphering precise fairness in the exchange's fine print discounts its significance. I've found that the beauty is the exchange itself and subsequent lessons learned. I'm blessed to have worked, lived and grown alongside them. And I'm equally humbled to know that they have taken something away. There's no numeric value I can assign to the good enjoyed as a result. Now that's what makes this experience a "fair trade."